The holiday in Austria was our first experience with great rail journeys. They are not cheap, but you get your money's worth.
Travel to and from the main destination was by first class rail and you travelled on some of Europe's most up to date trains in considerable comfort.
You get the services of a tour guide who looks after the group during the holiday and makes sure the trips etc. all happen. Also during the journey porters were arranged to carry luggage between trains or between train and hotel where this was feasible.
The hotels were excellent - in particular the Hotel Jenbacherhof is worth a mention. This is a family run hotel and they make their guests very welcome. The quality of the accomodation was high and the food was excellent.
The trips from the main destination were all included in the price so there are no hidden extras. Obviously there are lunches etc. to be bought but that's to be expected and with main meals provided in the evening, then light lunches were the order of the day.
Prices in Austria were on the whole not unreasonable. Obviously with the pound having fallen against the Euro recently they were higher than they might have been, but not excessively so.
I found Great Rail Journeys to be excellent and would go with them again.
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Tuesday 18 March
Today was the final leg home. We caught a TGV to Paris then caught the Eurostar back to London. The journey was largely uneventful mostly through pastoral country though there were the Vosges in the background between Basel and Strasbourg and we had to pass through them before joining the high speed line to Paris.
Getting on to Eurostar in Paris was the worst part of the journey as we had to pass through passport control for the only time on the journey and through airport style security. The french customs were somewhat unhappy about a polished ammonite we had bought from a little stall in Innsbruck, but in the end let it pass.
I feel the border controls on Eurostar are somewhat ott given that we have passed through borders between European countries with a minimum of formalities - including in and out of Switzerland which is not an EU member. I am not convinced it will deter terrorists - which is probably the excuse given. After all the July 2005 bombings in London were carried out by British Citizens. If other EU countries can manage with more relaxed border controls, why not the UK?
Getting on to Eurostar in Paris was the worst part of the journey as we had to pass through passport control for the only time on the journey and through airport style security. The french customs were somewhat unhappy about a polished ammonite we had bought from a little stall in Innsbruck, but in the end let it pass.
I feel the border controls on Eurostar are somewhat ott given that we have passed through borders between European countries with a minimum of formalities - including in and out of Switzerland which is not an EU member. I am not convinced it will deter terrorists - which is probably the excuse given. After all the July 2005 bombings in London were carried out by British Citizens. If other EU countries can manage with more relaxed border controls, why not the UK?
Monday 17 March
We set out for home today. We took the morning train to Zurich from Jenbach. The route was through the Alberg tunnel and the route taken by the train gave us magnificent views of the mountains both sides of the tunnel. After Feldkirch we were in flatter country but the mountains were still in the background. Between Feldkirch and Buchs we briefly crossed Liechtenstein and entered Switzerland. The last part of the route to Zurich was alongside two of the major Swiss Lakes. At Zurich we changed trains for the run to Basel where we had an overnight stop.
We arrived in Basel early afternoon and the hotel was just across the road from the railway station. The hotel provided us with a day ticket on the buses and trams and next to the hotel was a major tram interchange.
We took a tram into the city centre which turned out to be very interesting with some fine old buildings. The old centre round the Marktplatz had streets running off with many small shops but they were all closed on a Monday which was frustrating. Basel is another city worth another visit sometime.
I noticed over the past few days that the snow was going from the valley bottom and the farmers were starting with the ploughing. At the top of the Arlberg, there was still plenty of snow about but once we had got lower down again the snow went and in Basel it definitely felt springlike.
We arrived in Basel early afternoon and the hotel was just across the road from the railway station. The hotel provided us with a day ticket on the buses and trams and next to the hotel was a major tram interchange.
We took a tram into the city centre which turned out to be very interesting with some fine old buildings. The old centre round the Marktplatz had streets running off with many small shops but they were all closed on a Monday which was frustrating. Basel is another city worth another visit sometime.
I noticed over the past few days that the snow was going from the valley bottom and the farmers were starting with the ploughing. At the top of the Arlberg, there was still plenty of snow about but once we had got lower down again the snow went and in Basel it definitely felt springlike.
Sunday 15 March
Today was officially designated a free day. We went to the old town of Hal in Tirol which is just two stops before Innsbruck on the train. When we arrived, we wondered if we had done the right thing as it was all a little uninspiring, but we walked along a road that seemed to go towards the town centre and found the old centre which turned out to be very attractive indeed. While we were having a coffee in a cafe just on the edge of the old centre, a procession went past with a band and everyone dressed in traditional costume and wearing hats that looked just like those that Rumpelstiltskin in normally portrayed in. It was quite colourful though we did not find out what the procession was in aid of.
As it was Sunday, the shops were all shut but we found an excellent cafe in the old Rathaus to have lunch but we did not linger after lunch but went back to Jenbach and rested for the rest of the afternoon.
On the free day no meal was officially provided but the Hotel did in fact do a meal if you ordered in advance. They put on a mostly traditional Austrian meal with Goulash for main course and Tirolean apricot dumplings for sweet, though the soup was a Russian recipe as the chef had worked in Russia for a time. The meal was delicious and was certainly worth staying in for rather than going out into Jenbach where the range of resaurants seemed somewhat limited.
As it was Sunday, the shops were all shut but we found an excellent cafe in the old Rathaus to have lunch but we did not linger after lunch but went back to Jenbach and rested for the rest of the afternoon.
On the free day no meal was officially provided but the Hotel did in fact do a meal if you ordered in advance. They put on a mostly traditional Austrian meal with Goulash for main course and Tirolean apricot dumplings for sweet, though the soup was a Russian recipe as the chef had worked in Russia for a time. The meal was delicious and was certainly worth staying in for rather than going out into Jenbach where the range of resaurants seemed somewhat limited.
Friday 14 March
Today was a day in Innsbruck. We were given a train ticket which was also valid on the public transport in Innsbruck which was very useful. We caught a mid morning train and went to the Tourist office to get a city map and some info. They were very helpful and suggested taking a tram to the Ski lift where you could get a cable car to the top. When we reached the tram terminus at the ski lift, it was a bit of a walk to the foot of the ski lift and Heather's back was playing up a bit, so we took the tram back to the city, getting off at Maria Theresaplatz which was in the heart of the old city. We had wander round the old city and had our lunch in a cafe next to the Goldenes Dachl. There was a wedding on when we got there. The bride came out looking very attractive in traditional costume then spoilt the effect by lighting up and standing chatting with a cigarette in one hand and a drink in the other before getting into the car waiting for her and the groom who was also dressed in traditional style.
The weather did us proud in Innsbruck. The day was fine and the tops of the mountains could be clearly scene so the magnificent setting was shown to advantage. Innsbruck is a very attractive city certainly more immediately appealing than Salzburg though I think both are well worth visiting and exploring.
The weather did us proud in Innsbruck. The day was fine and the tops of the mountains could be clearly scene so the magnificent setting was shown to advantage. Innsbruck is a very attractive city certainly more immediately appealing than Salzburg though I think both are well worth visiting and exploring.
Friday 13 March
Today was a trip to Salzburg. We went by coach and the journey to Salzburg was unremarkable being along the Autobahn through Germany. The weather was foul for most of the journey but cleared up just before we got to Salzburg. We stopped briefly at the services on the Germany/Austria border going back into Austria. It was quite a contrast from when I went through this same crossing 25 years ago. All the customs posts had gone and you could simply drive straight through.
We had a guided walk round Salzburg organised. We were a little unsure of this but it turned out very well. The guide was very knowledgeable and did not have a set patter but responded to the group. She took us round the interesting parts of the city and gave us some insights into the city's history and also exploded one or two myths, especially about Mozart and the Trapp family (as in Sound of Music)
We had lunch in one of the little cafes and had a quick look round some of old city after lunch but did not go too far as we had a deadline to get back to the coach.
The trip home went the scenic route which was very attractive though the weather had deteriorated again. The scenery was still very impressive.
Overall a good day, though we would have liked a little more time to explore the old city.
In the evening the Hotel had organised a Tyrolean evening with traditional dancing. It was very interesting with many of the dances representing aspects of Tyrolean life - farming, rural crafts and interestingly silver mining which was an important industry in the past. The music was provided by an excellent accordionist. The instrument was a four row button accordion and the left had seemed to be basses only with chords being made with the right hand. It was certainly different from the piano accordion or melodeon which are common in the UK.
We had a guided walk round Salzburg organised. We were a little unsure of this but it turned out very well. The guide was very knowledgeable and did not have a set patter but responded to the group. She took us round the interesting parts of the city and gave us some insights into the city's history and also exploded one or two myths, especially about Mozart and the Trapp family (as in Sound of Music)
We had lunch in one of the little cafes and had a quick look round some of old city after lunch but did not go too far as we had a deadline to get back to the coach.
The trip home went the scenic route which was very attractive though the weather had deteriorated again. The scenery was still very impressive.
Overall a good day, though we would have liked a little more time to explore the old city.
In the evening the Hotel had organised a Tyrolean evening with traditional dancing. It was very interesting with many of the dances representing aspects of Tyrolean life - farming, rural crafts and interestingly silver mining which was an important industry in the past. The music was provided by an excellent accordionist. The instrument was a four row button accordion and the left had seemed to be basses only with chords being made with the right hand. It was certainly different from the piano accordion or melodeon which are common in the UK.
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Thursday 12th March
Today we had a trip to Pertisau by the Achensee. We had a ride on a horse drawn sleigh – though it was mostly on wheels as the roads were largely clear of snow. At the outer end of the run we stopped for a gluwein. On return to Pertisau, after having lunch we tried to find some of the chalet school locations Anna had asked us to look out for, but without much success. Pertisau is quite spread out and the local tourist office was shut until 2pm by which time it was almost time to go so we were unsuccessful.
We found a cafe for a drink before returning to Jenbach but it was a bit strange. The place itself was an odd mixture delicatessen and "natural products" (soaps and the like) with a few tables down the side of the deli counter. To use the loo you had to ask for the key! That was the only time we came across that during our stay in Austria.
Still it was a pleasant day and the scenery was magnificent.
Wednesday 11th March
Today we had a trip on the Zillertalbahn, a narrow gauge railway which connects Jenbach with Mayerhofen in the Zillertal. The railway maintains a steam locomotive and some old carriages for the tourists, though there is a regular service on the railway operated by diesel trains. We travelled on the steam train which runs once a week in winter – though probably more frequently in summer. The trip took about 90 minutes and was worth every minute. The line runs alongside the road most of the way and the track bed is well maintained with modern signalling. We were both feeling tired so we did not do a great deal while in Mayerhofen, but Heather found the place where she stayed when she came as a student. It was still in business – now a thriving cafe and we had our lunch there – gulaschsuppe with bread. There was a little altercation over the soup as they took it to the wrong people originally and although we got our soup, they would not give up the bread. We did get bread, but white rolls rather than the seeded wholemeal buns we should have had. Nevertheless it was still delicious. After a bit of a wander round the town and a hot choclate back at Cafe Kostner, we went back to Jenbach on a mid afternoon train. While on the way back, it snowed pretty heavily.
Tuesday 10th March
The plan for the day was a trip by coach to some of the local towns. Originally it had been hoped to visit Kufstein castle which apparently has a magnificent organ which has recently been restored but they were without power so in the end we went to Kitsbuhl. Kitsbuhl is a ski resort and while the town is quite pretty, the place had a very touristy feel to it. We found two interesting churches very close together. One dated from about the 8th century and the other from the fourteenth century. Both had been extensively modified in Baroque style in the 18th century and restored in the 1970's. The interiors were very richly decorated with much gilding and elaborate ceiling paintings, quite unlike churches at home. On the way back to the hotel we called at Rattenburg whose main street dates back to the middle ages and certainly had some interesting building. We treated ourselves to a cafe & strudel there – which I later regretted as I did not really have room for my evening meal!
Monday 9th March
Cologne to Munich
Full days travelling. We did not go along the Rhine as originally advertised, but went on the new high speed line to Frankfurt, travelling on one of the German ICE trains. These are very comfortable, smooth riding trains that certainly get a move on. You can sit at the end of the train and, depending on end, either see where you are going or where you have been. For the first part of the journey, we were at the rear of the train and looking back you realised over the first part of the line that we were climbing very steeply – in railway terms. Nevertheless we were travelling at speeds in excess of 200 km/h. At Frankfurt, the train reversed direction so we were immediately behind the driver and it was interesting to be able to look ahead. For much of the first section of the journey, as far as Wurtzburg, we were following the river Main or one of its tributaries. The line had a lot of curves and speeds were fairly modest except for a short stretch of high speed line just before Wurtzburg. After Wurtzburg, we used the high speed line to Ingolstatd and speeds were up to 300km/h. In fact, Wurtzburg to Ingolstatd was covered quite quickly. After Ingolstatd we were on the old main line to Munich. This was on good alignment and fairly level so we made good speed to Munich where we arrived on time just after 3.00pm. Close to Munich we passed through a station with a notorious name – Dachau.
Munich to Jenbach
The train to Jenbach was a Eurocity express, locomotive hauled. The carriage we were in was Italian and while comfortable, it did not appear as well kept as those we had travelled in earlier. The train made steady progress, first across fairly level country but after Rosenheim, the hills gradually began to close in either side of the train. We crossed into Austria at Kufstein. A spectacular castle could be seen perched on the hill. When we finally arrived at Jenbach, we were met by a coach which took us to the hotel. While it was only a 10 minute walk to the hotel, after a long days travelling, it was a relief to have our bags taken for us and not to have to walk up the hill. We were welcomed at the hotel with a glass of white wine or kir, which was a nice touch and the proprietor made us feel welcome.
Sunday 8th March
Start of Holiday proper. Met tour guide at St. Pancras. Eurostar to Brussels. First time I had been on the new high speed link to the channel. Was certainly much quicker than the old route. We were travelling first class so were served meals at our seats airline style. Plenty of room in first class compartment with 2 + 1 seating. Arrived Brussels on time and had time for a coffee before getting the Thalys to Cologne. This, like Eurostar is based on the French TGV trains. We were about 10 mins late into Cologne because of a points failure at Aachen. Even German railways have these problems!
Overnight stay in Cologne. Hotel comfortable and food good.
The Tyrol in Winter
Our holiday in AustriaSaturday 7th March
Left for London. Had an OU Tutorial in the morning so Heather took me to Durham and I got a train to Darlington where I met her.
Stayed overnight in London at Tavistock Hotel. Met Lizzie and David and had a meal and a natter. Passed the evening pleasantly where it could have just been hanging around.
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